Timber double entry door, Lakelands

Door Installation Perth

Doors Done Right, First Time
Qualified Carpenter Trade-qualified fitting, not handyman shortcuts
Square & Plumb Proper shimming and frame alignment on every install
Fixed Pricing Transparent quotes with no hidden extras
Carpenter-Grade Fitting for Internal, External, Bifold & Security Doors

A door that sticks, drags, or won’t latch properly isn’t just annoying—it’s a sign the installation was rushed. We fit doors square, plumb, and draught-free, with proper shimming, weatherseals, and hardware alignment. Every door gets the same attention whether it’s a $150 hollow-core or a $2,500 hardwood entry.

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What Perth Clients Say

★★★★★
All was done professionally with no hick ups. We can highly recommend Breezebay Carpentry.

Vicky Poelman

Perth Homeowner

★★★★★
He has given me a quote for the work to be done which worked out to be a very competitive price.

Wayne Jermy

Google Review

★★★★★
He was also respectful and straight talking - not a creepy tradie trying to fleece you or talk bulls*it.

Victoria Jones

Google Review

★★★★★
Both jobs were done to an exceptional standard, competitive price and completed in a timely manner.

Nancy De Pinto

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★★★★★
....keeping the site safe and very clean he has been an absolute pleasure to work with.

Juliette Grey

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★★★★★
It was a tricky job, involving a bit of creativity, but a year on they look great.

Ian Pawley

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★★★★★
Andrew did a fantastic job, and a very competitive price.

Ash Low

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★★★★★
Work has been completed on time, to a high standard and at reasonable cost.

Roger Palmer

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internal door installation, greenfields

What Proper Door Installation Covers

A carpenter-installed door isn’t just hung on hinges and called done. The process includes frame inspection, shimming to make the opening square and plumb, proper clearance spacing, weatherseal installation on external doors, and hardware alignment so the latch engages cleanly without forcing.

Most Perth homes—especially those built between the 1970s and 2000s—have settling that throws door frames out of square by 3-8mm. A handyman will hang the door to the existing frame and leave you with gaps, draughts, or a door that won’t close properly. A carpenter shims the frame back to plumb first, then fits the door to the corrected opening.

On external doors, we install compression weatherseals to Australian standards, check threshold clearances for weather-tightness, and align multi-point locks so they engage smoothly. On internal doors, we plane edges to the right clearance (typically 2-3mm top and sides, 8-10mm at the bottom for carpet), pre-drill for hinges and latches to prevent splitting, and adjust for swing direction and privacy hardware.

Whether you’re replacing a single bedroom door that’s been sticking for years or fitting a full set of new internals after a renovation, the process is the same: measure twice, shim square, hang plumb, adjust until it operates smoothly.

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Why Hire a Carpenter for Door Installation

The difference between a carpenter and a handyman on a door install is whether the door still works properly in 12 months. A carpenter knows how to read a frame, shim it square, and adjust hardware so it lasts.

Frame Correction First

We shim the frame square and plumb before hanging the door—fixing the opening, not just forcing the door to fit a wonky frame.

Proper Hardware Pre-Drilling

Hinge and latch holes are pre-drilled and countersunk to prevent timber splitting and ensure the hardware sits flush.

Clearance to Australian Standards

We maintain 2-3mm side clearances and 8-10mm bottom clearances for carpet—enough to operate smoothly without binding or draughts.

Weatherseal Installation

External doors get compression weatherseals fitted to the jamb and threshold, reducing draughts and heat loss by up to 40% compared to no seal.

Lock & Latch Alignment

Multi-point locks and privacy latches are aligned so they engage cleanly without forcing—a common fail point on rushed installs.

Seasonal Timber Movement Accounted

Perth’s dry summers and damp winters cause timber doors to shrink and swell. We plane and adjust for year-round operation, not just the day of install.

timber entry doors

Hollow-Core, Solid-Core, or Hardwood: Which Door Type Suits Your Needs

Most internal doors in Perth homes are hollow-core: lightweight, affordable, and adequate for bedrooms and hallways where noise and privacy aren’t major concerns. A hollow-core door costs $80-$150 per door (supply only) and installs in 45-60 minutes once the frame is prepped.

Solid-core doors—filled with particleboard or engineered timber—offer better sound dampening (around 30dB vs 20dB for hollow-core) and feel more substantial when closing. They’re the right choice for home offices, media rooms, or anywhere you want to reduce noise bleed. Cost is $200-$350 per door, installed.

External and security doors typically use hardwood (meranti, jarrah, or treated pine), steel, or fibreglass. Hardwood entry doors offer the best aesthetics and longevity in Perth’s climate, but require maintenance every 2-3 years (sanding and re-oiling). Steel security doors are the most cost-effective for security, while aluminium-framed security screens suit coastal areas where salt corrosion is a concern.

For bifold doors—common in laundry alcoves, wardrobes, and room dividers—we recommend cavity sliders or standard hinged doors instead where space allows. Bifolds look clean but have more failure points (tracks, rollers, alignment pins) and rarely operate smoothly after 5-7 years. If a bifold is your only option due to space constraints, we install them properly, but we’ll always suggest the more durable alternative first.

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Timber double entry door, Lakelands

Perth-Specific Door Installation Considerations

Perth’s climate swings between 10°C winter nights and 40°C summer days cause timber doors to move. A door that fits perfectly in July may bind in January as the timber swells with humidity, or develop gaps in February as it dries out. We plane doors with seasonal movement in mind—leaving slightly more clearance than the Australian standard 2mm in summer months, and fitting tighter in winter.

Coastal suburbs from Rockingham to Mandurah face salt-laden air that corrodes steel hardware within 3-5 years unless marine-grade stainless or coated fittings are used. We recommend 316 stainless hinges and latches on external doors within 5km of the coast, and aluminium-framed security doors over steel in these areas.

Many Perth homes built between 1970 and 2000 have door frames that have settled out of square by 5-10mm, particularly on limestone block or double-brick construction where the foundations have shifted slightly over decades. You can’t just hang a new door to a crooked frame and expect it to close properly—the frame needs packing shims behind the jamb to bring it back to plumb, then the door is fitted to the corrected opening.

For heritage homes in suburbs like Fremantle or South Perth, original door frames may be out-of-square hardwood that can’t be easily replaced. We custom-plane the new door to fit the existing opening rather than force the frame into compliance, maintaining the home’s character while ensuring the door operates smoothly.

carpenter working with timber

Why a Carpenter, Not Just a Handyman

A handyman will hang a door. A carpenter will hang it so it still works in five years. The difference is in the details most people don’t see: the shimming behind the frame, the hinge recess depth, the clearance spacing, the weatherseal compression, the latch strike alignment.

Handymen typically hang doors to the existing frame without checking for square or plumb. If the frame is out by 5mm (common in settled Perth homes), the door will bind, drag, or refuse to latch properly. They’ll force the hardware to fit rather than correcting the opening first. The door might close on the day of install, but within 6-12 months it will be sticking again as seasonal timber movement compounds the poor fit.

A carpenter shims the frame back to square and plumb before hanging the door, uses proper hinge recesses cut to the exact depth of the hinge leaf (so the door sits flush when closed), planes edges to the right clearance for the door type and location, and aligns the latch strike so it engages cleanly without forcing.

On external doors, the difference is even more pronounced. A handyman will skip the weatherseal or install it poorly, leaving gaps that let draughts and insects through. A carpenter installs compression seals to Australian standards, checks threshold clearances for weather-tightness, and ensures multi-point locks engage smoothly across all locking points.

The cost difference is typically $50-$100 per door. The quality difference is whether you’re re-hanging that door again in two years or it’s still operating smoothly a decade later.

Typical Door Installation Process

Every door installation follows the same systematic process, whether it’s a single internal bedroom door or a full set of external entries:

1. Frame Inspection & Correction

Check the existing door frame for square and plumb using a spirit level and combination square. Most Perth homes have frames out by 3-8mm due to settling. Pack shims behind the jamb to bring it back to square, then refix the frame to the wall studs. This step takes 15-30 minutes but is non-negotiable for a proper fit.

2. Door Sizing & Planing

Measure the corrected frame opening and cut the door to size, leaving 2-3mm clearance on the top and sides, and 8-10mm at the bottom for carpet (or 15mm for tiles if the door swings over flooring). Plane edges smooth and square. On external doors, check for weather bar clearance and ensure the bottom edge is sealed or primed to prevent moisture ingress.

3. Hinge Recess Cutting

Mark hinge positions (typically 150mm from top, 200mm from bottom, and one centred for doors over 2m tall), cut recesses to the exact depth of the hinge leaf using a chisel and router, and pre-drill screw holes to prevent splitting. Hinge recesses must be cut to the right depth—too shallow and the door binds on the frame; too deep and it won’t close flush.

4. Hanging & Initial Fit Check

Hang the door on the frame, check swing clearance, and test the latch engagement. Adjust hinge positions if the door isn’t sitting square in the frame. On external doors, install the compression weatherseal to the jamb and threshold at this stage, before final hardware fitting.

5. Hardware Installation & Final Adjustments

Fit the latch or lock, align the strike plate so it engages cleanly without forcing, install handles and any privacy hardware, and make final adjustments to ensure the door swings freely, closes flush, and latches smoothly. Test seasonal clearances—if it’s summer, leave slightly more clearance for winter swelling; if it’s winter, fit tighter for summer shrinkage.

Total time per door: 60-90 minutes for a standard internal door with an existing frame in reasonable condition. External and security doors take 2-3 hours due to weatherseal fitting, multi-point lock alignment, and threshold checks.

Indicative Door Installation Costs

Pricing depends on the door type, whether the frame needs correction, and the complexity of the hardware. These are indicative ranges for supply and installation across Perth’s southern suburbs:

Internal Doors

Hollow-core internal door (supply & install): $280-$380 per door. Includes a standard pre-hung hollow-core door, hinge and latch hardware, and installation to an existing frame in reasonable condition.

Solid-core internal door (supply & install): $420-$550 per door. Better sound dampening and more substantial feel, suitable for home offices, media rooms, or master bedrooms.

Custom timber internal door (supply & install): $650-$1,200 per door. Includes solid hardwood or custom-profile doors, upgraded hardware, and installation. Common for feature doors, French doors, or heritage replacements.

External Doors

Standard entry door (supply & install): $800-$1,400. Includes a hardwood or composite external door, compression weatherseals, threshold, and multi-point lock. Price varies with door material (meranti vs jarrah vs fibreglass) and lock quality.

Security door (supply & install): $650-$1,100. Includes an aluminium or steel-framed security screen with stainless mesh, triple-lock system, and closer. Marine-grade fittings add $100-$150 for coastal installations.

Bifold Doors

Bifold door set (supply & install): $420-$680 per opening. Includes a two-panel or three-panel bifold set, track, rollers, and alignment hardware. More panels or premium track systems increase cost.

Additional Costs

Frame repairs or replacement: Add $150-$350 per frame if the existing jamb is rotted, split, or too far out of square to shim effectively. Common in coastal areas or on weathered external frames.

Painting or staining: Add $80-$150 per door for factory-applied or on-site finishing. Raw timber doors require sealing or painting before installation to prevent moisture damage.

Lock upgrades: Add $100-$250 for upgraded multi-point locks, deadbolts, or keyless entry systems on external doors.

All quotes are fixed-price and include frame prep, shimming, hardware, and final adjustments. No hidden extras for travel, waste disposal, or minor frame corrections within 10mm.

Why Choose Breezebay Carpentry

Andrew is a trade-qualified carpenter who's been fitting doors across Perth's southern suburbs since 2008. You get honest advice, fixed-price quotes, and work completed to the same standard whether it's a single internal door or a full renovation.

Trade Qualified

Certificate III in Carpentry with 15+ years fitting doors across Perth homes, from 1960s weatherboard to modern steel-frame builds.

Fixed Pricing

Every quote is fixed-price with no hidden extras for minor frame corrections, shimming, or additional hardware within the original scope.

One Tradesperson

Andrew handles your job from quote to completion—no subcontractors, no handovers, no miscommunication.

Reliable Scheduling

Jobs are scheduled with realistic timeframes and completed when promised. If something delays the work, you’re told upfront—no surprises.

Door Installation FAQs

A standard internal door takes 60-90 minutes to install when the frame is in reasonable condition. That includes removing the old door, checking the frame for square and shimming if needed, cutting hinge recesses, hanging the new door, fitting the latch and handles, and making final adjustments. If the frame needs significant correction or replacement, add 30-60 minutes. External and security doors take 2-3 hours due to weatherseal fitting and multi-point lock alignment.

Yes—that’s exactly what proper door installation involves. Most Perth homes have door frames that have settled out of square by 3-10mm, particularly in older double-brick or limestone block construction. We pack shims behind the jamb to bring it back to plumb and square, then hang the door to the corrected opening. Frames beyond 15mm out may need replacement rather than shimming, which we’ll identify at the quote stage.

We can do either. Most jobs are supply-and-install: we source the door to your spec (hollow-core, solid-core, hardwood, security screen, etc.), deliver it, and install it. If you’ve already purchased a door and just need it fitted, we charge a labour-only rate of $180-$280 per door depending on complexity. That assumes the door is the right size for the opening—if it needs significant modification, we’ll quote accordingly.

Hollow-core doors are lightweight with a timber frame around a cardboard honeycomb core. They’re adequate for bedrooms and hallways where noise isn’t a concern, cost $80-$150 to supply, and are easy to handle. Solid-core doors have a particleboard or engineered timber core, offering better sound dampening (around 30dB vs 20dB for hollow-core), a more substantial feel when closing, and better durability. They cost $200-$350 per door and are the right choice for home offices, media rooms, or master bedrooms where you want to reduce noise bleed.

Indicative pricing: hollow-core internal door (supply & install) is $280-$380 per door; solid-core internal is $420-$550; standard external entry door is $800-$1,400; security door is $650-$1,100. Labour-only (customer-supplied door) is $180-$280 per door. All quotes are fixed-price and include frame prep, shimming, hardware, and final adjustments. Add $150-$350 if the frame needs replacement, or $80-$150 for painting/staining.

Yes—without a compression weatherseal, external doors lose 30-40% of their insulation value and let draughts, dust, and insects through. We install compression seals to the jamb and threshold on every external door, aligned so the seal compresses evenly when the door closes. On security doors, the weatherseal also reduces rattle noise from wind. Expect weatherseals to last 5-7 years before needing replacement.

Timber doors swell and shrink with humidity changes—Perth’s climate swings between 10°C winter nights and 40°C summer days cause noticeable movement. We plane doors with seasonal clearance in mind: slightly more than the standard 2mm in summer to allow for winter swelling, and fitting tighter in winter to prevent summer gaps. Solid-core and hardwood doors move more than hollow-core due to higher timber content. If a door is installed in mid-summer and fits perfectly, expect it to feel slightly tighter in winter—that’s normal and why clearance spacing matters.

Yes—heritage homes often have out-of-square hardwood frames that can’t be easily replaced without damaging original architraves and skirtings. We custom-plane the new door to fit the existing opening, maintaining the home’s character while ensuring smooth operation. On federation-era homes (1900s-1920s), original door frames may be jarrah or karri and still structurally sound despite being visually worn. We’ll advise whether the frame can be retained or needs replacement at the quote stage.

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