How Long Does It Take to Frame a Room?
A standard bedroom wall typically takes 6-8 hours for an experienced carpenter, but framing timelines depend heavily on the complexity of the…
May 18, 2026

Published: 04 Jan 2024
The fundamental distinction between timber and steel framing lies in how each material behaves under load and responds to on-site modifications. Timber studs, typically 90×45mm or 70×35mm MGP10 pine in residential builds, can be cut with a handsaw, drilled with a standard bit, and nailed or screwed without predrilling. This flexibility makes them forgiving during construction—if a plumber needs to notch a stud for a pipe run or an electrician has to drill through multiple members, timber tolerates these changes without compromising structural performance when done within AS1684 limits.
Steel frames, by contrast, are precision-engineered to exact dimensions and fastening schedules. A 75mm steel C-section stud resists bending far better than an equivalent timber member, but it requires metal snips, a TCT-tipped saw blade, and self-drilling screws rated for steel-to-steel connections. Once erected, steel frames are harder to modify—cutting a steel stud mid-span weakens it significantly, and any alteration usually triggers a re-certification requirement under AS4600. This rigidity is an asset in multi-storey or cyclone-rated structures, but it slows down follow-up trades on standard residential jobs.
For renovations and extensions—common projects across Rockingham, Mandurah, and older Perth suburbs—timber’s adaptability is a practical advantage. When you’re tying new framing into a 1980s brick-veneer home with non-standard stud spacing, being able to trim, pack, and sister timber members on the fly saves hours. Steel requires pre-planning every junction and penetration, which is manageable on a greenfield site but frustrating when dealing with existing structures that aren’t perfectly square.
Underground subterranean termites—primarily Coptotermes acinaciformis and Mastotermes darwiniensis in WA—destroy untreated timber frames faster than most homeowners realise. A mature colony can consume 100 grams of cellulose per day, and once termites breach the perimeter they move vertically through wall cavities, hollowing out studs from the inside. Steel frames are immune to this. Termites can’t digest steel, so a steel-framed home eliminates structural timber as a food source entirely.
That said, steel framing doesn’t eliminate termite risk—it just shifts it. Termites will still attack window frames, skirting boards, architraves, roof trusses (if timber), flooring, and any cellulose-based sheeting like plasterboard or fibre-cement if they can access it. A steel-framed house still needs a chemical barrier or physical termite management system under AS3660, and the non-structural timber components remain vulnerable. The advantage is that the walls themselves—the primary load-bearing structure—won’t collapse if termites breach the perimeter.
In suburbs within 5km of the coast (Rockingham, Safety Bay, Baldivis coastal estates), termite pressure is extreme. Councils in these areas don’t mandate steel framing, but they do require a termite management plan on every new build and major renovation. Timber frames are code-compliant when treated to H2 or higher (AS1604.1), paired with a registered chemical barrier, and inspected annually. Steel frames meet the same code without the treatment step, which appeals to risk-averse owners and lenders.
For renovations, switching from timber to steel mid-project complicates detailing. If you’re extending a 1970s timber-framed home, tying steel studs into the existing timber frame plate requires hybrid brackets and engineer sign-off. It’s simpler to match the existing material unless the extension sits in a known termite hotspot or the owner specifically wants steel for peace of mind.
Thermal bridging—the transfer of heat through structural members—differs dramatically between timber and steel. Steel conducts heat 300-400 times faster than timber. A 75mm steel stud creates a continuous thermal bridge from the external cladding to the internal lining, bypassing the insulation batts that sit between studs. In practice, this reduces the effective R-value of a steel-framed wall by 30-50% compared to the nominal insulation rating. A wall rated R2.5 with batts might perform closer to R1.5-R1.8 once you account for steel bridging.
Timber studs still create thermal bridges, but the effect is far less severe. Pine has a thermal conductivity of around 0.12 W/mK; steel sits around 50 W/mK. This means a timber-framed wall maintains much closer to its rated R-value. In Perth’s climate—where summer days regularly exceed 35°C and winter mornings drop to 8°C—thermal bridging affects both heating and cooling costs. Steel-framed homes typically show higher energy bills unless the builder uses thermal breaks (foam-filled studs, external insulation wraps, or insulated cladding systems), all of which add cost and complexity.
The NCC (National Construction Code) sets minimum R-values for walls and roofs, but it doesn’t directly penalise steel bridging—it just requires the builder to meet the overall performance target. Most steel-framed homes achieve compliance by over-specifying insulation or adding continuous external insulation boards, which brings the total cost closer to timber once you factor in materials and labour. For a standard single-storey home in Mandurah, timber framing with R2.5 batts meets code comfortably. Steel framing would need R2.5 batts plus either 10mm EPS board under the cladding or reflective foil sarking, both of which require skilled installation to avoid air gaps and moisture traps.
One overlooked detail: steel frames are noisier. Steel studs resonate at frequencies that amplify airborne sound, so a steel-framed internal partition between bedrooms transmits more TV noise and conversation than an equivalent timber stud wall. Acoustic batts help, but timber’s natural damping is superior. If bedroom privacy matters—common in families with teenagers or shift workers—timber wins on liveability.
Timber studs from sustainably managed Australian pine plantations have an embodied carbon footprint of roughly 0.3-0.5 kg CO₂-e per kilogram of timber, and much of that is offset by the carbon the tree sequestered while growing. Steel’s embodied carbon sits around 1.8-2.5 kg CO₂-e per kilogram, depending on the percentage of recycled content in the steel. A typical steel-framed house uses 3-4 tonnes of structural steel; a timber-framed equivalent uses 2-3 cubic metres of sawn timber (roughly 1-1.5 tonnes). The steel frame’s carbon footprint is 4-6 times higher.
This matters increasingly to councils, certifiers, and environmentally conscious owners. Perth councils don’t yet mandate embodied carbon limits, but the trend is moving that way—similar to how energy star ratings became mandatory on new builds. Timber framing scores better on lifecycle assessments, especially when the timber is Australian-grown (shorter transport) and certified under the Responsible Wood or FSC schemes. Steel, even with recycled content, requires energy-intensive blast furnaces and rolling mills, most of which run on coal or gas.
For renovations, reusing existing timber frames where structurally sound is the lowest-carbon option. A 1980s home with solid 90×45 F5 hardwood studs can often be retrofitted with new noggins, additional bracing, or sistered members rather than stripped and replaced with steel. The carbon cost of demolition, haulage, and new steel far exceeds the cost of repairs unless the timber is genuinely compromised by rot or termites.
Perth’s coastal humidity, salt-laden winds, and seasonal swings affect both materials differently. Steel frames in coastal zones (within 1km of the ocean) must be hot-dip galvanised to at least Z275 coating under AS1397 to resist corrosion. Even then, exposed cut edges and screw penetrations create rust initiation points unless sealed with cold galv paint or zinc-rich primer. Homes in Rockingham, Safety Bay, and Mandurah’s waterfront estates see accelerated corrosion on poorly detailed steel frames—window reveals, eave soffits, and balcony posts are common failure points after 10-15 years.
Timber frames, when treated to H3 (exterior above-ground) or H4 (ground contact) for bottom plates and posts, handle coastal exposure well. The treatment injects copper-based preservatives that resist both decay fungi and termites, and unlike galvanising, the protection extends through the entire cross-section. Coastal builders in WA often use hardwood (jarrah or spotted gum) for exposed posts and bearers because it’s naturally durable without treatment, though it costs 2-3 times more than treated pine.
Wind loading under AS1170.2 doesn’t strongly favour one material over the other—both timber and steel frames can be engineered to Cyclone Region C (the rating that covers most of Perth). The difference is in the detailing: steel frames use proprietary cyclone brackets and bolted connections; timber frames rely on triple-grip nails, galvanised straps, and coach screws. Both work, but steel’s precision-fit brackets are easier to inspect and verify during council inspections, which is why volume builders in cyclone-prone areas (north of Perth, parts of Mandurah) default to steel.
Material cost per linear metre for a standard 90×45 F5 pine stud sits around $4-$6 delivered to site. An equivalent 75mm steel C-section stud costs $8-$12. That’s a 50-100% premium before you factor in the higher fastener cost (tek screws vs nails) and the need for specialist cutting tools. On a 180sqm single-storey home, the framing material cost difference is $3,000-$5,000 in steel’s favour—not huge, but enough to notice.
Labour cost tips further toward timber. A two-person carpentry crew can frame a 4m×3m internal stud wall in timber in 3-4 hours. The same wall in steel takes 4-5 hours because cutting, fitting, and fastening steel studs is slower and more physically demanding (steel studs are heavier per metre and require more precision). Over a full build, timber framing saves 1-2 weeks compared to steel, which matters when you’re paying site costs, insurance, and holding finance.
For small renovations—adding a bedroom, enclosing a patio, building a robe—timber is almost always cheaper and faster unless the job sits in a declared termite zone where council or the insurer mandates steel. DIY-capable owners can tackle basic timber framing with a circular saw, drill, and nail gun; steel framing requires a metal-cutting saw, aviation snips, a rivet gun, and familiarity with AS4600 connection schedules. That’s a bigger barrier to self-build or owner-builder projects.
Steel framing is the right choice for:
Timber framing suits:
Many Perth builders use both materials strategically: steel frames for external load-bearing walls (termite immunity, wind resistance) and timber for internal partitions (cost, acoustic performance, ease of modification). This hybrid approach balances the strengths of each material without the full cost penalty of an all-steel frame. It’s common in Mandurah and Rockingham estates where termite pressure is high but budgets are tight.
Another hybrid: timber framing with steel strapping and bracing. External walls stay timber but gain steel strap bracing (L-shaped galvanised straps nailed to studs and plates) to meet wind load requirements without diagonal timber braces that complicate plumbing and electrical runs. This keeps timber’s thermal and cost advantages while adding steel’s shear strength where it matters most.
Both timber and steel framing must comply with AS1684 (timber) or AS4600 (steel), and both require span tables, bracing calculations, and connection schedules signed off by a structural engineer for anything non-standard. The difference is in the tolerance for variation. Timber framing allows minor on-site adjustments—adding a noggin here, sistering a stud there—without re-certification as long as it stays within AS1684 Simplified rules. Steel framing is less forgiving: any deviation from the engineer’s drawings triggers a variation notice and potential re-inspection.
For DIY renovations, this matters. A homeowner adding a bedroom with timber framing can work from AS1684 Simplified residential tables (available free from the timber industry) and get council approval without hiring an engineer, as long as the span and loads stay within table limits. Steel framing almost always requires an engineer’s stamp, even for simple internal walls, because AS4600 doesn’t offer simplified residential tables—it’s a full engineering standard.
Timber frames, when protected from moisture and termites, last 80-100+ years. Perth has weatherboard homes from the 1920s still standing on original timber frames, proof that the material endures when detailed correctly. The weak points are always junctions: where timber meets masonry (rising damp), where roof water discharges (eave soffits), and where soil contact occurs (subfloor stumps). Regular inspections and prompt repairs prevent 95% of timber frame failures.
Steel frames, in theory, last even longer—galvanised steel resists both biological decay and UV degradation. In practice, coastal corrosion and poor detailing (unflashed penetrations, water pooling in C-section profiles) shorten lifespan. A steel-framed home 30 years old in a salt-air zone will show rust staining, blown welds, and corroded fastener heads unless it was built to marine-grade specifications. Inland steel frames (Armadale, Byford, hills suburbs) fare better—dry air and lower humidity slow corrosion significantly.
Perth has far more carpenters qualified to frame in timber than steel fixers qualified to frame in steel. A standard carpentry apprenticeship covers timber framing as core curriculum; steel framing is a specialty elective. This affects availability and cost—steel framers charge 10-20% more per hour than carpenters, and they’re harder to book during busy periods. For renovations and small extensions, finding a qualified steel fixer in regional areas (Mandurah, Bunbury) can delay the job by weeks.
Timber framers are also more likely to work on small jobs. Steel framing crews prefer volume work (whole estates, multi-unit developments) where they can amortise setup and tool costs. A single-room extension or garage conversion is often uneconomical for a steel crew, but it’s bread-and-butter work for a local carpenter.

Andrew Van Shelven
Carpenter
With over 27 years in the trade, Andrew Van Shelven is a fully licensed carpenter (Lic. 9005265) and the owner-operator of Breezebay Carpentry. Based in Secret Harbour, he works on projects across Perth’s southern suburbs through to Mandurah, and takes on larger jobs as far as Perth’s northern suburbs.
Andrew’s hands-on experience spans both interior and exterior carpentry — from floorboard installation, wall removals and gyprocking through to decking, pergolas, patios and timber fencing. Homeowners across the region choose Breezebay Carpentry for upfront, fair pricing and a tradesman who treats every job like his own.
When he’s not on a job site, Andrew’s usually enjoying Secret Harbour’s relaxed coastal lifestyle — the same outdoor-loving mindset that shapes how he designs decks, pergolas and outdoor living spaces for local families.
Structural framing repairs done properly — termites, rot, or previous poor work corrected.
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